Via delle Bocchette – the most beautiful ferrata in the world

An unforgettable adventure above the clouds on the Via delle Bocchette

– A stroll above the clouds –

That’s how we felt during many unforgettable days spent in the Gruppo di Brenta. It wasn’t just a stroll through clouds—clouds lay beneath our feet, and we were in a place that seemed like something one could only dream of.

In this article you will read about:

1. What is Via delle Bocchette?
2. The most beautiful ferrata in the world
3. What does “bocchette” mean?
4. Where to admire the majestic Gruppo di Brenta at sunset?
5. Which ferratas are part of Via delle Bocchette?
6. Where to rest along Via delle Bocchette
7. Where to start Via delle Bocchette
8. What to pack for Via delle Bocchette
9. How many days does it take?

1. What is Via delle Bocchette?

Via delle Bocchette is an extraordinarily beautiful and thrilling trail made up of several ferratas, located in the Gruppo di Brenta, in northern Italy. This region is famous for its spectacular scenery and excellent climbing walls.

The Dolomiti di Brenta are undeniably one of the most beautiful mountain ranges in the world. Their majestic peaks, rocky cliffs, breathtaking ravines, and incredible panoramic views attract adventure and nature lovers from all over the globe. At the heart of these magnificent mountains lies the extraordinary Via delle Bocchette, a true paradise for climbers and fans of alpine challenges.

The trail stretches across the Brenta group, from the Peller hut in the north to the Dodici Apostoli hut in the south. It is not a single path but a network of ferratas of varying difficulty, covering a mountain range roughly the size of the Tatra Mountains. Climbing experiences are unique and unforgettable, with each ferrata offering its own distinct character and stunning views of the surrounding landscapes. And there is so much to admire: to the west are the mighty glaciers Adamello and Presanella, to the east the Dolomites, and to the north the Alps with the Ortler, Cevedale, and Tauern groups.

Via delle Bocchette means several or even dozens of magical days spent high in these incredible mountains; it means staying at legendary mountain huts steeped in alpine history; it is the joy of being close to the mountains at their best and, most importantly, accessible to nearly everyone. Because beyond its beauty, it is its accessibility that makes Via delle Bocchette truly exceptional. There is no other place in the world quite like it.

2. The most beautiful ferrata in the world

There’s nothing else in the world quite like Via delle Bocchette—and no other trail can compare.

Even completing a dozen other ferratas, no matter how stunning, won’t bring as much emotion and awe as walking the Bocchette trail. There is no other ferrata like it because there is no other place on Earth like the Dolomiti di Brenta. This ferrata will captivate everyone who sees it. We fell in love with it long before visiting—just one photo of the Figari ledge along the Via delle Bocchette Centrali was enough to convince us that we had to go.

Not only did its charm prove irresistible, but we fell deeply in love with it, and it returned the favor, offering emotions we hadn’t even dared to hope for.

The ferratas run along the main ridge of the Brenta group, almost along its spine, surrounded by towering cliffs, peaks, and spires vanishing into endless mists and clouds.

Thanks to its extraordinary beauty, the Gruppo di Brenta also occupies a special place in the history of mountaineering, etched there by the greatest climbers in the world! All because they, too, were enchanted by its towers, spires, vertical walls, and unrivaled ravines. The Brenta emerged in the Tertiary era from the sea, like Aphrodite—and only she can rival the Gruppo di Brenta in beauty.

To truly understand what Via delle Bocchette is, you must:

1. See the Gruppo di Brenta bathed in the red hues of sunset.
2. Be awestruck by this view.
3. Inevitably fall in love with it.

Because Brenta looks its best just before dusk. Before setting off on the trails Benini, Alte, Centrali, Brentari, or Ideale, take a seat in the evening on a bench at Passo Campo Carlo Magno or near Malga Ritorto. Wait for the exceptional golden hour and enjoy the unique spectacle in the theater of the magical Brenta mountains.

Witness the legendary enrosadira, the phenomenon that turns stone into fiery flames. Perhaps it was this view that led Charlemagne to camp on the meadow above today’s lower station of the Grostè cable car. Maybe these fiery sunsets inspired Teodor Compton to paint so many stunning watercolors of the Brenta in red, or made the famous Empress Sisi so fond of visiting Madonna di Campiglio.

Or perhaps it’s the magical sunrises admired from the shores of Lago Molveno or the mountain theater at Rifugio Montanara.

I don’t know, but this place is both beautiful and magical. Within reach yet still so remote. How many climbers, mountaineers, and mountain lovers have been utterly captivated here? The number is undoubtedly vast.

3. What does “bocchette” mean?

This term is now mainly used in Trentino and refers to a narrow pass, almost like a notch. Via delle Bocchette means the trail between such notches.

The trail takes you from one pass to another, from bocchette to bocchette. A broader pass is called a “bocca,” while elsewhere in Italy, the term “forcella” is used. To complicate local toponymy, you must also account for large passes, referred to as “passo.”

4. Where to admire the majestic Gruppo di Brenta at sunset?

You’re likely familiar with enrosadira, the magical moment at sunrise or sunset when the rock glows red.

The easiest place to enjoy it is from the bench at Campo Carlo Magno. For a more enhanced experience, climb higher to Lago Nero or Lago Ritorto. Both spots offer ideal views of the Brenta ridge and the Via delle Bocchette—perfect for a picnic with wine, a baguette, and cheese.

Alternately, enjoy the sunset from the shores of Lago Nambino or Lago Malghette. The base of Crozzon di Brenta’s 900-meter walls is another spot sure to inspire awe.

A pre-adventure evening stroll along the granite glacier views of Adamello comes highly recommended.

5. Which ferratas are part of Via delle Bocchette?

How many are there? Four, five, or perhaps eleven? We say eleven!

1. Via ferrata delle Bocchette Alfredo e Rodolfo Benini
   This impressive medium-difficulty ferrata is one of the most popular sections of Via delle Bocchette, and for many, it serves as the starting point for traversing the entire route. It is perfect for novice climbers, though the narrow paths along vertical cliffs from Passo Grostè to Rifugio Tuckett can be intimidating in places. Along with the excitement, it offers stunning views of the surrounding peaks and valleys. This ferrata was funded by Rodolfo Benini and named after his father, Alfredo. The trek takes about 5 hours.
2. Via ferrata delle Bocchette Alte – the most challenging section
   Demanding and at times climbing above 3000 meters, this ferrata connects Rifugio Tuckett with Rifugio Alimonta or Brentei. The route features impressive rocky paths, breathtaking passes, long exposed ladders, and spectacular views of the Brenta peaks and beyond. Built between 1968 and 1969 thanks to the persistence of the Detassis brothers and the generosity of donors, this section takes about 6.5 hours to complete.
3. Via ferrata delle Bocchette Centrali
   This trail cuts through the heart of the Gruppo di Brenta, passing near the iconic Campanile Basso. It is home to the famous Figari ledge but is just as beautiful and thrilling on either side. The route from Rifugio Alimonta to Rifugio Tosa takes about 4 hours. Crampons and an ice axe are essential here. Many climbers mistakenly end their Via delle Bocchette adventure here—this is a mistake, as the following sections are equally beautiful and captivating. Built between 1936 and 1957, this ferrata remains one of the most iconic.
4. Via ferrata SOSAT
   Also known as the “lower path,” this ferrata connects Rifugio Tuckett with Rifugio Brentei but stays at much lower altitudes compared to Bocchette Alte. It offers one of the best views of Crozzon di Brenta, a legendary peak compared to the iconic walls of the Matterhorn or Cimon della Pala. Though it starts easy, the route becomes challenging with a dramatic descent down a steep cliff. This section, built between 1960 and 1961, commemorates the 40th anniversary of the SAT workers’ section. It takes about 4 hours to complete.
5. Via ferrata alpinistica Livio Brentari
   This is one of the most difficult sections of Via delle Bocchette. The challenge here isn’t steep walls or exposed ledges, as in previous ferratas, but the descent into and traverse of the Ambiez glacier. Crampons and sometimes an ice axe are essential. From Rifugio Tosa to Rifugio Agostini, the route takes about 4 hours. Built in 1933, it is part of the original Sentiero dell’Ideale.
6. Via ferrata alpinistica dell’Ideale Cesare Salvaterra-Cege
   Fantastic and thrilling, but the crossing of the Camosci glacier is particularly demanding. This is no place for amateurs—crampons and an ice axe are required. Slippery, steep, and challenging, the ferrata offers stunning views and exciting approaches to passes like Bocca d’Ambiez. Often traversed together with Via ferrata alpinistica Livio Brentari, it takes approximately 4.5 hours to go from Rifugio Agostini to Rifugio Dodici Apostoli.
7. Via ferrata Ettore Castiglioni
   Named after Ettore Castiglioni, a legendary climber and author of perhaps the best guide to Gruppo di Brenta, this route is accessible and suitable for everyone comfortable with exposure. It features numerous ladders leading to Bocchetta dei Due Denti, a picturesque pass offering incredible views of the rocky amphitheater near Rifugio Dodici Apostoli and the Adamello-Presanella group. The trek takes about 3 hours from Rifugio Agostini to Rifugio Dodici Apostoli.
8. Via ferrata Oliva Detassis
   This alternate ending to Via ferrata delle Bocchette Alte offers an exhilarating descent down a nearly 100-meter vertical wall. While it lacks significant technical difficulties, the exposure guarantees adrenaline. From trail 305A near Bocchette Bassa dei Masodi to Rifugio Alimonta, it takes about 2 hours. Built by the Detassis brothers, it is dedicated to their mother, Oliva.
9. Via ferrata Osvaldo Orsi
   One of the oldest protected routes in the Alps, though its safety features are minimal. This beautiful, long trail with stunning scenery provides an alternative to the higher ferratas, Bocchette Alte and Centrali. The section from Rifugio Tuckett to Rifugio Tosa takes about 4.5 hours.
10. Via ferrata Costanzi
    The wildest and least equipped northern section of Via delle Bocchette, this 20-kilometer trail requires not only endurance but also mountain experience. It takes 2 days to complete with an overnight stay in a bivouac. Alternatively, it can be done in a single long day, though there’s no need to rush through such beauty.
11. Via ferrata delle Palete
    This lower-altitude but equally long and scenic route connects the Peller hut with Passo Grostè. It’s an ideal return path after completing the Via ferrata Costanzi.

6. Where to rest along Via delle Bocchette

On this long, multi-day trail, it’s necessary to rely on several mountain huts, which not only offer accommodation but also meals and a warm welcome after a tiring climb.

Unlike most ferrata regions, the trails in the Gruppo di Brenta are planned differently. Descending into the valley for a night’s rest would take too much time, as would climbing back to the ferratas the next day. Instead, you should plan to stay in mountain huts conveniently located along the Via delle Bocchette.

General tips for staying in mountain huts:

• Operating season: Huts are typically open from around June 20 to September 20, depending on the calendar.
• Quiet hours: These are observed from 10:00 PM to 6:00 AM.
• Reservations: Especially in July and August, you must book your stay well in advance.
• No sleeping on floors: If there are no beds available, guests are generally redirected to lower-altitude huts.
• Meal options: You can opt for accommodation only or choose half-board with dinner.
• Dormitory-style rooms: Rooms are shared with other hikers.
• Showers: Available for an additional fee.
• Discounts: Members of alpine clubs (e.g., Alpenverein) can receive discounts at huts managed by SAT.

Huts are bustling with visitors during the day but quiet down after 4:00 PM, allowing you to enjoy the serene mountain surroundings. Evening and morning are the most magical moments to be outside the hut, marveling at the breathtaking landscape.

Essential mountain huts along Via delle Bocchette:

1. Rifugio Tuckett e Sella
• Altitude: 2,272 m.
• A popular spot for climbers starting their Via delle Bocchette journey. It’s our favorite hut in the Brenta group, partly because of the friendly manager. The hut offers accommodations in two buildings, tasty meals, and stunning views of the surrounding peaks.
2. Rifugio Maria e Alberto Brentei
• Altitude: 2,182 m.
• Recently renovated, this hut owes its fame to its perfect location and the legendary Bruno Detassis, who managed it for decades. It offers cozy accommodations and traditional meals to enjoy in a modern dining hall with breathtaking views.
3. Rifugio Alimonta
• Altitude: 2,580 m.
• One of the highest huts in the Brenta group, ideal for climbers seeking rest and inspiration amidst the grandeur of the mountains. The hut provides comfortable lodging and delicious meals. Its terrace offers panoramic views of the peaks and valleys, making it an unforgettable experience.
4. Rifugio Tosa-Pedrotti
• Altitude: 2,491 m.
• One of the oldest and most renowned huts in the Brenta group, known for its hospitality and incredible views of the surrounding mountains.
5. Rifugio Fratelli Garbari ai Dodici Apostoli (Rifugio Dodici Apostoli)
• Altitude: 2,486 m.
• This unique cube-shaped hut has a rich history and a legendary reputation in the Brenta group. The long approach trails and its extraordinary location on the edge of a massive rocky ledge make it a true alpine retreat.
6. Rifugio Silvio Agostini
• Altitude: 2,410 m.
• Built thanks to the dedication of hundreds of climbers enchanted by the beauty of the Ambiez valley, this hut is an essential stop for trails in the Gruppo di Brenta. It holds historical significance and offers fantastic views from its prime location.

7. Where to start Via delle Bocchette

There are four main entry points into the central part of the Brenta group, home to the most popular sections of Via delle Bocchette.

Western entrances:

1. Passo Grostè
   The most common starting point, located north of the central section, at the beginning of the Via ferrata delle Bocchette Alfredo e Rodolfo Benini. Easily accessible via a cable car from Passo Campo Carlo Magno, a wide pass about 5 km north of Madonna di Campiglio. Near the upper station of the cable car at Passo Grostè, signs point toward the beginning of the trail. This ferrata was the last section to be built on Via delle Bocchette, completed in 1972.
2. Pinzolo
   A popular starting point in the southwest. From here, take the cable car to the top of Doss del Sabion and head for an overnight stay at Rifugio Fratelli Garbari ai Dodici Apostoli. Two ferratas are accessible from here: Via ferrata dell’Ideale or Via ferrata Ettore Castiglioni. We recommend starting with Ideale and saving Castiglioni for the descent toward Rifugio Agostini.

Eastern entrances:

1. Molveno
   A charming gateway on the eastern side, with two routes to choose from. One leads to the stunningly located Rifugio Montanara, offering breathtaking views of the eastern walls of the Gruppo di Brenta. From here, it takes about 4–5 hours to reach Bocca di Tuckett, connecting to ferratas Alte and Benini.
2. Bocca di Brenta
   Another trail from Molveno leads to Rifugio Pedrotti, located at Bocca di Brenta, which serves as a starting point for the Centrali and Brentari ferratas.

8. What to pack for Via delle Bocchette

Remember that you need reliable clothing, as conditions can change rapidly in the mountains: waterproof clothing, including a jacket (preferably with Gore-Tex) and waterproof pants that can be layered over climbing pants. These should be lightweight yet sturdy enough to handle harsh conditions.
We’ve experienced this firsthand on several occasions. One of the most surprising weather changes we encountered occurred in the Brenta group, where we faced the heaviest rainstorm we’ve ever experienced in the mountains. The memory of pouring water out of our boots and hiking in pajamas (the only dry clothes left at the bottom of our backpacks) is one we’ll never forget.

Check also WHAT YOU NEED TO PACK FOR A MOUNTAIN HUT STAY to make sure you’re well-prepared.

9. How many days does it take?

Completing the Via delle Bocchette takes 7 to 14 days, depending on the chosen route variant. A week is the minimum to fully immerse yourself in this breathtaking adventure. However, planning your route in the Brenta is a topic worthy of its own detailed article—coming soon!