10 Essential Guidelines for Safety on Via Ferratas You Must Know
Climbing via ferratas is an exciting adventure, but safety should always come first. Many accidents on ferratas happen due to a lack of knowledge or ignoring basic rules. That’s why we’ve created this guide to help you understand how to stay safe on via ferratas. You’ll learn how to avoid common mistakes, how to use the equipment properly, and what to do to make your adventure both safe and enjoyable.
1.Start with easy routes and gradually increase the difficulty
Starting with easier routes allows you to master climbing techniques and get used to the exposure to heights. It’s best to begin with ferratas rated at difficulty levels A to B, as they provide the opportunity to familiarize yourself with the process of clipping and unclipping carabiners. On more challenging ferratas, especially those running along vertical walls, this task can become significantly more difficult. Gradually increasing the difficulty helps you build confidence and avoid dangerous situations. It also allows you to slowly get used to the exposure, which on some ferratas can cause dizziness or a sense of vertigo for beginners.
2. Start early in the morning and avoid descending at dusk
Planning your climb in the early morning gives you more time to complete the route. This way, you reduce the risk of descending after dark, when visibility is limited and navigation becomes more difficult. Starting early also helps you avoid crowds and queues at more challenging sections of the route.
In the Dolomites, weather conditions often change in the afternoon, with a higher chance of rain and thunderstorms. This is due to the warm air rising from the valleys and cooling rapidly as it reaches higher altitudes, leading to the formation of storm clouds. Thunderstorms in the mountains can develop suddenly, posing a serious risk to climbers. We cover this topic in more detail below, in point 8.
3. Don’t overestimate your strength and skills
Overconfidence can lead to disaster. It’s better to choose a route that’s below your skill level than to get stuck in a situation you can’t get out of. Keep in mind that fatigue builds up as you progress on the ferrata, making it harder to tackle the more demanding sections. The more tired you are, the higher the risk of an accident.
When climbing in a group, always choose a route that matches the abilities of the weakest member. This ensures that everyone can safely complete the climb without unnecessary stress or risk. It’s also a good idea to bring a rope to provide additional protection for less experienced climbers in the group, especially on exposed or technically challenging sections.
4. How to stay safe on via ferratas with proper equipment
Always wear a helmet, harness, and via ferrata lanyard – and check that everything is properly connected.
Proper equipment is essential for every via ferrata climb:
• Helmet – Protects your head from falling rocks.
• Via ferrata lanyard – Connects you to the steel cable and absorbs falls.
• Harness – Works with the lanyard to provide protection during a fall, keeping your body in a safe position.
Always double-check that the lanyard is properly connected to your harness. Incorrect connections are one of the most common mistakes that can cost lives. After every climb, inspect your equipment for damage. Cracks and wear can pose a serious threat.
If you’ve experienced a fall and the shock absorber in the lanyard has been activated, the lanyard is no longer fit for use and must be replaced.
Check here to see exactly what VIA FERRATA EQUIPMENT you need.
5. Use a “Y”-shaped lanyard and always clip both carabiners
A “Y”-shaped lanyard is the safest option because it allows for secure transitions between ferrata sections and provides the best fall absorption.
When moving along a ferrata, both carabiners at the ends of the lanyard must always be clipped to the steel cable. At anchor points where the steel cable is attached to the rock, unclip one carabiner and attach it to the new section of the cable before unclipping the second one. This method ensures that you are always secured to the route.
6. Pay attention to the condition of anchors and steel cables
Steel cables, anchors, and holds are the key elements of protection on via ferrata routes. Before you start climbing, check their condition. Rusty, loose, or cracked anchors are warning signs – if you see them, it’s best to turn back and report the issue to the nearest rifugio (shelter) or route operator.
7. Don’t race others and keep your distance
There’s no place for racing on a ferrata. Competing with other climbers can lead to accidents. Keep your distance from people above you – if someone above you loses their balance, they could fall directly onto you. It’s better to wait until the person ahead clears a difficult section than to take unnecessary risks.
8. How to stay safe on via ferratas in bad weather
Don’t climb during storms or bad weather.
A storm in the mountains is one of the biggest dangers. The steel cable acts as a lightning rod, which means that touching it during a storm can be fatal. If you see signs of an approaching storm – dark clouds, thunder – head back to safety immediately. If the storm catches you on the route, seek natural shelter, but avoid touching the steel cable.
9. Watch out for other climbers – both above and below you
You’re not alone on the ferrata. People above you can accidentally dislodge rocks that will fall straight down. For this reason, never climb directly below someone else and use helmet. If you’re the one climbing above others, be careful not to knock down rocks on those below.
10. Hire a guide if it’s your first via ferrata
Your first via ferrata can be stressful. If you’re unsure of your skills, consider climbing with a guide. A guide will not only help you safely complete the route but also teach you essential technical skills. Climbing with a guide is a great way to gain experience and confidence.
In every town in the Dolomites, you’ll find offices of experienced and certified guides who can help you start your mountain adventure. These guides offer professional support, ensuring your safety and providing valuable knowledge about climbing techniques and local routes.
Safety on via ferratas is a priority
Safety on via ferratas is a priority. By following these 10 essential rules, you significantly reduce the risk of an accident. Start with easy routes, always wear proper equipment, and be prepared for changing weather conditions. Remember that how to stay safe on via ferratas is not just about knowing the rules but also about applying them in practice. If you have any doubts, hire a guide – your life is worth it. At the beginning of our mountain adventure, we often relied on the support of guides when climbing the highest Alpine peaks and later during our first experiences on via ferratas. Their guidance gave us the confidence and skills needed to progress safely in the mountains.
Don’t wait – your next adventure is calling. The Dolomites are ready. Are you? ?
